Chapter 3

Grain lines

A few years ago I thought I had gotten a super deal on a shirt at an outlet store.  Every time I wore the shirt it would twist and go to one side.  No matter how much I ironed and "fixed" the shirt  it just wouldn't cooperate!  Now I know that shirt was cut off grain and I didn't get a good deal on it!

In Chapter 3 of Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing Gertie's teaches us a few methods  to get the fabric on grain before we begin working with it.  Once the fabric is on grain we need to make sure it stays on grain when we cut out pattern pieces.  To do this, always place the pattern on the fabric with the grain line parallel to the fabric's grain.  Measure the distance form the pattern's grain line to the edge of the fabric at various points on the pattern's grain line to make sure it is the same distance at every point.


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Skirt with Bow

I found this great skirt tutorial by Sew like my mom. The skirt looked so cute on her toddler that I decided to make myself and adult version. I made some time to sew it this weekend and wore it to work today! I followed her directions exactly and learned how to insert a working zipper into my skirt! I looove my skirt sooo much and got so many compliments at work that I'm sure I'll make a few more of these. Maybe next time I'll raise the hem just a little bit.

Simplicity 2258 View E Shorts Sew Along Part 1

 

View E: Shorts

 

 

What you'll need to get started

Fabric - How much depends on the pattern size and fabric width .  For a great explanation on how to determine pattern size and how to lay/cut fabric click here.  I used a poly/cotton blend fabric.

1 1/4" wide Elastic- long enough to go around your waist.

Thread

Pattern pieces: 2, 4, 10, 11, 12 (I didn't put a cuff on mine so I didn't use 12).

fabric, matching thread, elastic, measuring tape, scissors,
 pinking shears, pins, seam ripper (my new best friend!)

Pinning and Cutting Fabric
Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric. Pin in place and cut.

• Make sure your grain line is straight. I measure across the fabric/pattern piece to make sure it is the same distance from every point. If you need to learn more grains and cutting
  you can read a great explanation by Rachael Myers.



Cut pieces: 2 front pieces, 2 back pieces,
 2 pockets, 2 waistband pieces.  I didn't put the cuff on mine,
but if you want the cuff you should cut that piece (the little square in the center) as well.




Step 1a: With the right sides together and the
raw edges even, pin the front and pocket.

 

Step 1b: Stitch the side with notches.  You do all of these steps for both front pieces.

Step 1c: Press, trim, and clip seams.

Step 2a: Flip the front and pocket so the right
sides are showing and press.



We skip step 3. That is only used for the pants.
 

Step 4: On Outside, top-stitch 1/4"
from the finished edge. Press.



Step 5/6: On the inside, fold the right sides together to form the pocket.  Stitch the bottom of the pocket.  I didn't get a picture, but the drawing on the instructions shows you how to stitch the bottom.  Now, on the outside, you should have something
that looks like the picture above.  Pin and baste the
side and top edges together. Press.
 

Skip step 7  (that's for the pants).

 

 

Step 8: With right sides facing, stitch front to back at INNER leg seams. I pressed and finished my seams with pinking shears.
It should look like this once you open it.

 

 

Step 9: With right sides together, match the center seam and match the notches in the inner leg.  Stitch the "U shape" and stitch again over first stitch to reinforce the seam. Press and use pinking shears to finish seams.

Skip Steps 10- 13.
 

Step 14: With right sides together. 
Stitch the front to the back at the side seams.
Press and finish seams.

 

 

 

Chapter 2 Prepping (Tools. Machines, Fabric)

Tools
Gertie lists the essential and extra tools for sewing.  This is really handy for those of us who are new to the world of sewing and want to buy everything in the fabric shop!  She lists the basics/extras you will need for:

1. measuring
2. pinning and cutting
3. marking and basting
4. sewing
5. pressing

Fabric
She explains how you should select fabric for your sewing project and recommends collecting fabric swatches to familiarize ourselves with different types of fabric. 

Dictionary of Garment Fabric (my favorite section of the chapter)
In this section she lists a description of different garment fabrics.  I'll probably copy these pages and take them with me when I go fabric shopping!
 
She describes these (and other) fabrics in detail...
Silk (chiffon, duchesse satin, faille...)
Wool (houndstooth, wool tweed...)
Cotton, Linen, Rayon (gingham, pique, cotton tweed...)
Specialty fabrics (chantilly lace, brocade, tulle...)
Utility fabrics (muslin, batiste, silk organza...)
Knits
Vintage Fabrics
Lining Fabric

The chapter ends with recommendations for washing and pretreating fabric.

Happy stitiching everyone!

I Just Got My Copy Of Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing!

"The man who does not read good books has no advantage over  the man who can't read them."            ~Mark Twain

I just got my copy of Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing and can't wait to try some of the projects in section 2! But, before I can get there, I need to practice (I mean learn!!!!)  the techniques that she discusses in section 1.   I've just read the intro and chapter 1 and already know that I will learn soooooo much from this book.   I will outline the key points that I learn form each chapter and encourage everyone to pick up a copy and take advantage of the tips Gertie's book offers!

Chapter 1: Sewing Retro 101
In this chapter, Gertie shows you how you can create a vintage wardrobe using contemporary  or  vintage patterns.  She lists the pros/cons for both of these.   Modern patterns are a cheaper choice and  you can find a larger size range.  Also, they have more detailed instructions if you chose a contemporary pattern.  If you are interested in the real deal and want to learn more about vintage patterns, you should check out www.vintagepatterns.wikia.com. She finishes the chapter by giving you detailed directions for sizing, tracing, and storing vintage patterns.

 

Simplicity 2258 View C Part 1

Simplicity 2258 View C

(short skirt ) Sew Along

What you'll need to get started

Fabric - How much depends on the pattern size and fabric width . Since I was making mine in a size 6 and using 45" fabric I used 1 1/2 yd.   For a great explanation on how to determine pattern size and how to lay/cut fabric click here.

1 1/4" wide Elastic- long enough to go around your waist.

Thread

prewashed fabric, thread, elastic



Fabric scissors, seam ripper (just in case),  measuring tape, pins
I don't have a serger so I will use pinking shears to finish seams
 

Pinning and Cutting Fabric

• Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric. Pin in place and cut. You can follow layout 3A on the pattern directions if your pattern does not have a nap.  

 Pattern pieces 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6 if you want the belt

Make sure your grain line is straight.  I measure across the fabric/pattern piece to make sure it is the same distance from every point.  If you need to learn more grains and cutting
you can read a great explanation  by  Rachael Myers.



The same pattern piece is used for the long skirt so make sure
you fold the pattern along the cutting line for view C.

 

Cut your pattern pieces. Make sure you mark/cut the notches (little triangles on the pattern) on your fabric.






1 back, 2 pockets (only 1 showing in pic.),
1 front, 2 casing pieces



No Pattern Knit Peplum Skirt! (say that 3 times!!!)

My sister asked me if I had enough skills to make her a peplum skirt...my reply "Of course! Didn't you see my awesome pajamas????"  The pressure was on so I searched You Tube for a video and came across this great tutorial by tglashen.  Her directions are very easy to follow and she has several other great beginner projects.  I don't have a serger like she does, so I just used a zigzag stitch on my knit fabric.  My sis loved her new skirt sooooo much that she had to take it on her honeymoon! haha

My peplum skirt in Cancun!

Hits:

Worked with knit fabric for the first time.
Took on a patternless project!
Made something that can be worn in public!

                                                                              Misses:
Took me a loooong time to get the tension correct.
Learned the hard way to use an appropriate needle for knits!!!!!!

Happy stitching!